No Man Can Resist An Island

Sydney Morning Herald

Saturday April 19, 2008

Christina Pfeiffer Christina Pfeiffer travelled courtesy of Tourism Queensland.

Christina Pfeiffer grabs her flippers, jumps in a seaplane and heads for her top three single-resort islands.

Few phrases are as evocative to stressed wage earners as "island holiday". The mental picture is swaying palm trees, aquamarine seas and deserted beaches. There's the exoticism, too - "I'm going to Hayman Island for my honeymoon" has a nice ring to it.

The attraction of an island has encouraged the development of a string of resorts along the Queensland coast. The latest is Fitzroy Island, four kilometres off Cairns, where Hunt Resort is scheduled to open late this year. Its website promises facilities such as a "day spa, fine dining and exquisite shopping". Accommodation options cover all bases: luxury beachfront villas, ocean-view apartments, rainforest-view hotel rooms, a 160-bed "adventure hostel" and camping facilities.

The question this raises is whether the attempt to serve the budget and luxury markets on a single island is likely to succeed. Would you pay for a luxury villa when you know there's a budget option nearby? Many operators prefer the single-resort island model, which ensures the establishment remains exclusive and numbers are controlled. Here are my favourites.

Lizard Island

Flying over the island, you gaze upon a thick carpet of bushland fringed by white sandy beaches. Dark shadows of coral lurk beneath clear, shimmering waters. The Barrier Reef is at Lizard Island's doorstep.

There are only 40 rooms and villas lodging 101 guests and service is attentive yet discreet. When I arrive I'm whisked to a patio overlooking the ocean where waiters appear with plates of finger food and iced mango tea.

The modern design of the resort, built in 1999 and refurbished in 2006, blends in with the natural environment. My contemporary Anchor Bay suite has timber furnishings, floor-to-ceiling glass panels, a king-sized bed, desk and a large couch. Sliding glass doors lead to a beachfront veranda with a day bed and deckchairs.

As soon as I check in, I throw on my swimmers, step out of my room and walk across the lawn and onto the beach, where I pull on my mask, snorkel and flippers. I only have to wade a short distance into the water to find myself staring in wide-eyed astonishment at brightly coloured fish and coral.

The staff try hard to make sure I'm enjoying myself with helpful suggestions about activities. One morning I head off by myself on one of the resort's motorised dinghies. The activities supervisor has packed me a picnic hamper where chilled prawns, roast beef, smoked chicken, pickled octopus and a Greek salad wait to be washed down with a bottle of champagne. All I need to do is pick one of the deserted white beaches to set up my beach umbrella. I anchor the dinghy at Watsons Beach, snorkel among the coral and return for a treatment at the resort's spa.

Voyages Lizard Island's rates start at $1650 a person twin share for two nights and include accommodation, meals, a range of beverages and many activities. There are no children under 12. The best room is the Pavilion, which has its own plunge pool and ocean views. Return flights from Cairns on Hinterland Air are from $450. Phone 1300 134 044 or see www.lizardisland .com.au.

Orpheus Island

As our seaplane touches down and glides to a small pontoon, I glance at the sign: "Orpheus Island Resort - International Airport". Indulgence and seclusion rule at this privately owned island. Orpheus is very small, with a maximum of 42 guests. The staff are attentive and pretty good at anticipating guests' needs.

Food and wine feature strongly here. On my first evening I "dine with the tides" at a solitary table set up at the end of the jetty. The meal is a fresh seafood bounty of baked barramundi, king prawns, red-claw crayfish, blue swimmer crab and scallops. On other nights there are seven-course degustation dinners.

One morning I join two other guests in the resort's launch, headed for Hazard Bay. Here we snorkel among schools of colourful fish and gaze in wonder at giant clams.

My Nautilus suite is modest, with white walls, tiled floors, plantation shutters and soft pale furnishings. It has a sitting room and an outdoor shower. What's missing on the island is a day spa, a standard facility in top-end luxury resorts.

Orpheus Island's rates start at $725 a person a night twin share and include accommodation, meals (drinks cost extra) and many activities. No children under 15. Return seaplane flights from Townsville cost $450. Phone (07) 4777 7377 or see www.orpheus.com.au.

Hayman Island

I'm in a beachside hut looking at the ocean, a therapist massaging the tension from my shoulders. With its relaxed tropical ambience and luxurious accommodation, it's easy to see why so many celebrities visit Hayman. American pop star Kelly Clarkson declared the island to be "one of my favourite places on the planet".

Unlike most other Australian tropical island resorts, Hayman's furnishings lean to the lavish. More than a hectare of marble was used in the floors and the resort is furnished with antiques, handcrafted furniture and fabrics. Superb artworks decorate the walls.

The resort projects a tranquil tropical ambience. I love the winding pathways lined with palms, lily ponds and stone statues.

The most expensive of the 212 rooms are the themed penthouses in the lagoon wing and the beach villa, all of which come with butlers. Palm and pool rooms have either tropical garden or pool views, while lagoon rooms overlook lily-filled ponds or the beach. The ground-level rooms in the pool wing have stainless-steel ladders leading from the balconies directly into the pool. My lagoon deluxe room is stylishly decorated in muted tones with polished wood, lounge chairs and a king bed swathed in crisp cotton.

My favourite restaurant is the Oriental. The garden setting is wonderful: a timber veranda among palm trees overlooking the pond with delicate water features. Other choices are French fine dining at La Fontaine, fresh seafood at Azure, Italian at La Trattoria or a romantic candlelit dinner served anywhere in the hotel.

Hayman's rates start at $580 a room a night including buffet breakfast. Children are welcome. Return launch transfers from neighbouring Hamilton Island cost $310. Phone 1800 075 175 or see www.hayman.com.au.

ISLAND IDEALS

Top notch

Looking for your own private island to hire? Double Island Resort, 10 minutes from Palm Cove in Far North Queensland, has 20 one-bedroom rooms and apartments. Facilities include a 25-metre landscaped pool and outdoor spa, library, cinema and water sports. The rate for 10 guests for three nights is $35,700. See www.doubleisland .com.au.

Voyages Bedarra Island has 16 luxury villas set in an exclusive environment with an open-bar system. This is the only resort on the island but there are a couple of other luxury holiday homes. Prices start at $1584 for two nights and include meals, alcohol and most activities. See www.bedarraisland.com.

Eco experience

Haggerstone Island has a back-to-nature experience in the home of Roy and Anna Turner. The island, which is 80 kilometres from the tip of Cape York, accommodates six to eight guests in hand-built islander-style huts. Activities include fishing, snorkelling and diving. Rates start from $650 a night, including meals (no drinks), activities and excursions. The return flight from Cairns is expensive ($840). See www.haggerstone island.com.

Voyages Wilson Island has designer camping for up to 12 guests on a coral cay surrounded by a reef. The island is a breeding ground for turtles and birds. Tents have ocean views, king-sized beds, fluffy bathrobes and daily housekeeping service. Rates are from $990 for two nights and include meals, drinks and return launch from Heron Island. See www.wilsonisland.com.

Voyages Heron Island, off Gladstone, is a coral cay with a variety of aquatic life, including migrating whales and turtles. The resort has advanced eco-certification from Ecotourism Australia. Rates from $191 a night, including accommodation, buffet breakfast and many non-motorised sports. Add $65 a person a day for the meal package. See www.heronisland.com.

Green Island has a development built below the tree canopy that also has advanced eco-certification. Rates from $495 a room a night. See www.greenislandresort.com.au.

Hinchinbrook Island is Australia's largest national park island. The resort has beach cabins and treetop bungalows. Rates from $445 a night (sleeps two) in a treetop bungalow. See www.hinchinbrookresort .com.au.

Family friendly

Voyages Brampton Island is a 106-room retreat with beaches, coral gardens and national park walking tracks. Rates from $149 a night for accommodation, breakfast and some activities. Add $65 a person for the meal package. See www.brampton-island.com.

Voyages Dunk Island has extensive rainforest boardwalks, a nine-hole golf course and many activities. Rates from $166 a night include accommodation, breakfast, non-motorised sports and activities. Add $65 for a meal package. See www.dunk-island.com.

Daydream Island claims the world's largest outdoor aquarium, a giant open-air cinema and a mini-golf course themed on Australia's tourist attractions, with holes such as the Sydney Opera House and Birdsville Pub. See www.daydreamisland.com.

Lindeman Island's Club Med has a host of activities for families, including kids' workshops and a circus school. See www.clubmed .com.au.

South Molle Island's rates start at $118 a night. See www.southmolleisland.com.au.

Budget

The resort at Lady Elliot Island, off Bundaberg, has rates from $126 a night (bunk accommodation with six in a room), which includes breakfast, dinner and tours. See www.ladyelliot.com.au.

Hook Island, in the Whitsundays, has camping from $45 (two adults) and rooms with ensuites from $150 a couple. See www.hookislandresort.com.

Coming

Fitzroy Island's resort is due to open later this year. See www.fitzroyisland.com.au.

All prices quoted are per person twin share unless otherwise stated.

© 2008 Sydney Morning Herald

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